Rousoumi, Alonnisos, Sporades
39º 08.82 N
23º 52.18 E
day was rounded off by a visit from my cousin Jenny & her Greek husband
Andreas who now live part of the year near
5th June we made a mid morning start from Olympic Marine, initially
motoring with little or no wind on the nose, north up the Evvoikos
Channel. There were a few dolphins
fishing in the distance – some nice jumps - & also some birds (some sort of
sheerwater I think) joining in. About midday the wind freed & increased
& we were able to sail. There was
some sort of military vessel patrolling to & fro, & later a helicopter
hovered very close with what we think was a hydrophone slung underneath. Further on we kept crossing tracks with a
slow moving freighter as he had to follow the channels twists & turns until
he finally pulled ahead. We went into the tiny anchorage of Voufalo (Bouphalo)
next day (6th June), with 1kn of wind, we motored the 16nm to
Eretria (on Evvoia), watched a seaplane land & take off again en route,
& anchored across the bay from Eretria’s harbour & ferry terminal. The beach was busy with Greeks enjoying
themselves, & the water. We took a
dinghy run across to a pebbly shore by the harbour for a provisioning run &
quick look around. Team
(7th June) dodging ferries we left
walk around the Town yielded a nice fish lunch along the promenade opposite the
mainland, some interesting old buildings to the south & quite a tide (this
is the Med!) running through the sliding bridge. This bridge only opens to shipping at night,
& we were told to be on standby from 10pm up to possibly 4am – a long night
N.B. Something that caused us confusion on the form we were given for the bridge was that we were transiting from N to B. (we were going S to N). Investigation in dictionary gives south as Notos hence the N . (north is boppas).
Greek experts please excuse my interpretation of greek letters.
The second part of the day began with a mid morning departure for a 31.8nm trip to Ormos Amiron, Kolpos Atalantis on the Greek Mainland. This was the now fairly usual mix of motoring & sailing, except the sailing was a beat.
bay was fairly busy as it was a Greek bank holiday, & again the water was
not as clear as the
9th June. Left the anchorage
motoring to charge the batteries, avoided a nest of ‘pot’ buoys, then started
sailing close hauled until about lunchtime the wind died. We rounded the NW corner of Evvoia between
the islet of Nisidha Mondia & a sand spit on
Orei was a pleasant place with tavernas & provisions (food, diesel, water) all close.
It is noteworthy for a large marble bull that some local fishermen hauled up in their nets & is now in a glass case. It must be at least twice life size, but unfortunately the case makes it impossible to photo.
Wednesday 10th June. After some chores
& provisioning we left Orei mid morning. The other boat had anchored over
us, but between the two of us it was cleared.
So after motoring at the start, in the early afternoon we were able to
sail, then again needed a single reef before going to full sail again. Tea time we anchored at
Next morning (11th June) we left
Koukounaris motoring so we could ‘sightsee’ along the coast. We saw one dolphin
off the headland as we cleared the bay. At midday we were off
After a wander round the town (compared by some to Mykinos, but not really in the same league), & collecting some water we decided to move as it looked like being a very noisy place close to the local night clubs, plus lots of swell from ferries.
First alternative round the headland we could not get the anchor to set for weed, so we backtracked slightly to Ormos Plantania. 5.6nm. Now early evening but the visibility in the water was lovely & there were lots of fish, albeit small. All night there were birds calling, possibly nightjars, & what we first thought was a mistake in moving from the town turned out to be a lovely anchorage.
Friday 12th June. We left Ormos Plantania
mid morning, unfurled just the genny (at 6 to 7 kn who needs the main?) for a
relaxed sail to Loutraki,
Early evening we decided to walk up the mule track to Glossa – the town up the hill above – for supper. A dumb move as by the time we got there we were both blobs of sweat & I especially didn’t really think I was fit to go into a nice resturant. Anyway we cooled down a bit with a drink in a café with a super view over the coast, & swifts & swallows screaming overhead, then found a very nice resturant with an equally good view.
The evening was enlivened by chatting to an Aussie lady on the next door table, then it was a taxi back down the hill. We’d probably have broken our legs on the mule track in the dark, but the road was a much windier longer route.
Saturday 13th June. We took the bus to
A flotilla was arriving so we interspersed chores with people & boat watching for the rest of the afternoon, then went for an evening stroll & supper.
Sunday 14th June. Reasonably prompt start
initially motoring along the coast we traversed by bus yesterday. Mid morning
we started sailing, a beat again, then the breeze kicked in & it was a reef
in the main & rolls in the genny.
The wind followed the coast so even when we rounded the high cliffs on
the SW corner of Skopelos it was still a beat, until we arrived & anchored
at Ormos Rousoumi,
Rousoumi is adjacent to the main port, & is a relatively small bay with steep rocky cliff sides, & a few tavernas behind a shingle beach. Apart from local fishing boats we were the only boat at anchor there.
Doug did his regular thing of diving to check the anchor, decided we should re-anchor to stay clear of some rocks, then found a huge mussel shell on the sea bed. Anyone for supper?