Sugar 'n' Spice - Weblog
Date Filed	22/05/2009
Location	Mykonos Greece
Lat/Long	37º 27.89	25º 15.58
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We managed a reasonably prompt start the next day (14^th May) despite finding the dredger & its crane spanning the channel when we were about to untie. The entrance channel silts & apparently there is almost continuous dredging to maintain the depth. We had rung the marina before attempting to go in to check as we draw 2.1m, & had still just touched once on the way in. Anyrate our exit was fine as the dredger withdrew to one side & waved us through, while a couple of fishing boats joined in the exodus.

Motoring, as there was no wind, we retraced our route along the south coast past the excavations at Akrotiri & turned northwards into the caldera. This gave us the chance to see the famous crater from sea level, & realise how high were the cliffs where we had stood the previous day, & how multicoloured with their icing of (mostly) white houses. A swordfish leapt near the black volcanic island of Nea Kameni, in the centre of the crater, several cruise ships were anchored, & excursion boats were rushing hither & thither in very busy fashion. Heading on we passed the final white clifftop village of Oia, & feeling somewhat overawed left the caldera by the northernmost gap in its volcanic rim.

With Santorini astern a light breeze filled in & we were able to sail most of the way to our next destination, the anchorage at Ormos Kolitzani on the island of Ios. 30nm.

This was a delightful bay with a few scattered houses on the hillsides & clear water, which immediately beckoned for a swim.

Although Ios has a reputation as the ‘clubbers’ island the only noises to disturb us that night was the hoot of an owl, & the occasional jingle of sheep & goat bells as they grazed over the terraced hills.

We had a relaxed departure from our peaceful anchorage the next day (Fri 14^th May), motoring in no wind, but as we cleared the island a light breeze, about 4 or 5 knots, arrived & we were able to ghost along at a similar speed under sail. Mid morning we had a group of dolphin around us intent on fishing, but when Doug tried he had the usual result. We reached Naxos early afternoon where we anchored stern to quay in what is called the marina (but looks like a harbour to me), after 26.5 nm.

Here, with the help of the Harbour Master, who summoned the local chandler, we obtained a plank, to walk!!! between boat & quay. We had been intending to get something since leaving Malta as Mediterranean ‘parking’ often means there is quite a gap (to jump), but wood supplies mostly seem to be in rather remote locations, so it has remained a round tuit. However Naxos provided the stimulus as we had to keep the boat well off the quay because of surge from the ferries so no one was going ashore unless we did something.

We utilised it to go for a stroll round the narrow winding streets of the old town, before finding a taverna for supper in one of them.

Saturday (16^th May) we spent the morning doing chores & provisioning. Then we caught a bus to the inland village of Filoti high upon the foothills of Mt Zas. At 1000m this is the highest point of the Cyclades, & regularly snow covered in winter. Needless to say the views were lovely & the whole area was much greener than we have been seeing of late.

After a stroll & snack in Filoti we carried on down the hill to the next village of Chalki (Halki) & caught the bus back to Naxos.

That night was ‘disco’ night for the town & we could hear revellers until the very late early hours (about 6am). They probably got their come uppance when the church bells started ringing for Mass at 7 am, & kept on going!

We made a prompt departure from Naxos on Sunday (17^th May) with the wind (actually forecast to increase) doing the same thing as of late a very light breeze filled in as we cleared the island, enabling us to sail. We had a brief spell of motoring when the wind died & we were amongst a fishing fleet. They had gulls & therefore fish, but there were no dolphins to be seen. Soon after midday we arrived at the new harbour in Mykonos & rafted to a British Lagoon 40 ‘Sea Nymph’ (Sue & Geoff) . 23nm.

Although yachts are now prohibited from using Mykonos Town harbour the new harbour is still a building site. There are no facilities & not all the quay walls are completed, so yachts are mostly mooring alongside & not really utilising the available space. There are currently no charges either.

With the wind now increasing as forecast more boats were arriving & there were several ‘barging’ episodes & some imaginative ‘parking’ until all were sorted.

On the Monday (18^th May) Sea Nymph departed. They had collected their daughter & partner here yesterday, but needed water – not available here yet. Having retied we were asked by a group of young Germans in a Sun Odyssey 49 (Si Shirin) if they could come alongside us as they were not in a good place. So it was late morning before we could set off to Mykonos Town, about 40mins walk away. Another white town, a maze of alleyways, with lots of little churches & chapels. I found it delightful, but I’m glad not to have seen it in high season as it was still fairly busy now when their season seems only just begun. On the edge of town is the row of windmills that appear in countless photos & below it is a bit called Little Venice with balconied houses standing virtually in the sea.

On Tuesday we headed back to Town again, this time to take a ferry to the ancient island & city of Delos. This is such a significant site in Greece that private boats are not allowed to anchor around the island & the only access is via the licensed ferries.

While waiting we were entertained by the Town’s pelican mascots, again much photographed.

The ferry trip was interesting as the promised meltemi was already blowing & it was more of a roller coaster ride than a boat trip. The site dating from around 2500BC covers a huge area (most of the island) & is dedicated to the worship of Apollo. Amongst the ruins it is possible to see the layout of streets & houses, some with private pools & some amazingly complete mosaic floors. There is also a row of stone lions, although the originals are now in a museum on the site.

Finally we climbed to the high point of Mt Kythnos, with views over the nearby islands, in this instance hazy due to the amount of dust kicked up by the wind. Then it was back to the ferry & another head banging roller coaster ride back to Mykonos.

Wednesday the meltemi was still blowing so we hired a car for the day & combined provisioning & laundry runs with some sightseeing further afield on the island. We visited the inland town of Ano Mera with the monastery of Panagia Tourliani filled with ornate icons & topped by a marble tower. Then on to Ftelia on Panormos bay where wind & kite surfers were revelling in the windy conditions.

We even found time to throw some buckets of water over the boat, who had again acquired a red sand coating, this time from a north wind bringing the dust.

Thursday (21^st May), still blowing & the forecast still saying N7, locally 8. We took another trip into Mykonos Town, found more interesting streets & squares, met the pelicans again & decided we still thought it an enchanting place, especially out of season. Then it was back to the boat for some chores & round tuits.

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