Sugar 'n' Spice – Weblog 5

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At home in the UK


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Marina, Croatia

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Monday 31st May. We motored the 2.5 nm from our anchorage up to the marina at Skradin - the usual laid lines & stern to quay.

Safely tied up we dashed to catch the next boat up the river gorge to Skradinski buk, the start point to visit the Krka waterfalls. The falls were in magnificent flow & we followed paths to numerous vantage points, & other features including a mill, a forge & one of Europe’s earliest hydroelectric power stations. Finally the path led up & over the falls by a system of bridges & boardwalks before descending the other side. We were surprised to see fish in some of the pools as well as frogs ‘ribbeting’, & some differently marked chaffinch.



We walked back down through the gorge to Skradin, & just failed to beat the forecast rain. That continued most of the afternoon, then we ventured out for provisions & supper.

Next day, 1st June, we left Skradin, retracing out route down the Krka river gorge, past Sibenik & out to sea. We unrolled the genny as we turned S for the sail down the coast to Morinje. This is another very long sheltered inlet, but accessed by passing under a bridge with only 20m clearance. With our air draft of 19.1m this was quite a nail biting event! Safely in we anchored in a small cove (14 nm) & enjoyed the wooded scenery.



However nobody fancied a swim as the water was not as clear as we have become accustomed to (lots of vegetation off the trees I think) so we braved the bridge again, unfurled the genny & carried on S to Rogoznica. The wind had increased so it was only 2 hours for the 12 nm.

A local & grandsons were collecting mussels from a small boat, so we acquired a starter for supper. Very nice too, but a lot of work for Doug cleaning them.

Wed 2nd June. Woke to rain, & it was still raining when we made a reluctant start just before midday to motor the 12 nm to Uvala Mali Luka on Drvenik Veli island. The rain had eased when we anchored, lucky for the dog as it had to take a line to shore again. The bay had two branches & only one other boat anchored near us. Amazing as it is not far from Split. We didn’t feel like swimming after the rain, but rowed round the bay & were surprised to see a large number of multicoloured beehives on the hillside.

Thursday 3rd June. A prompt start to motor - no wind - the 15.5 nm to the marina at Split. Much more sea traffic than we have seen for some time.


Arriving late morning we walked into the city to play tourist – walk along the Riva (promenade), lunch, explore the narrow streets of the old town & Diocletian’s palace, the market place & waterfront. A very pleasant town.



The next morning (4th June) after a quick visit to town for provisions we left for a mix of motor & sail for the 13.5nm to Uvala Osibova on the island of Brac. A dolphin passed us in the straits between Solta & Brac, & again we anchored & the dog took a line to a convenient ring on the shore.

There were a number of new houses in the process of being built, & a few people about, so although the bay was very peaceful, & the pilot described it as secluded, it will probably change fairly soon. A local fisherman laid a net out from the shore. It was weighted to go to the bottom, but I’m not sure if our keel would have cleared it. Anyrate he came back later in the evening & had caught a very large fish, which he rushed away with, presumably to a local restaurant.

Saturday 5th June. We left Osibova bay & were soon sailing. Late morning the wind went flukey & we motored up the long inlet to the small town of Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, where we picked up a mooring off the Town Quay. 10nm.

The town was very pleasing to look at, & we soon rowed ashore to explore the waterfront, small market & the winding back streets with church & monastery, & find a snack & an ice cream for lunch.



Back on board we motored 2nm west to anchor in Luka Zavala. Apart from a brief interlude when some youngsters raced round in a speedboat it was another peaceful bay with lots of small fish.

Sunday 6th June. Left Zavala bay for another mix of sailing & motoring when the wind went light. Clearing Hvar we had a glimpse of fins (dolphin or porpoise) astern & later shearwaters circled the boat, & we saw some ‘rafts’ of these birds bobbing on the flatish sea. Early afternoon we anchored in Uvala Sv. Fumija off Chiovo island. 26 nm.

As the afternoon breeze picked up we decided there was too much current to swim so we moved 1nm round the corner to Uvala Dugi, with a better wind direction. This had poor holding (described in the pilot as a ‘daytime’ only anchorage) so later, as the wind dropped, we returned to our original location in U. Sv Fumija for the night.

Next morning (7th June) we motored the 4.6 nm round the western end of Chiovo to the marina at Trogir. After a few jobs, we set off to explore this charming town. It sits on its own island & is joined by bridges to the mainland to the N & Chiovo island to the S.



A climb to the cathedral bell tower provided super views, even if the ascent seemed rather precarious, & the narrow streets & shady squares of the town proved a contrast to the wide waterfront promenade. As evening fell the marina, actually on Chiovo, was the place to watch the lights from.



Tuesday 8th June. After some more jobs & forays to the town we left the marina late morning to motor the 6 nm west to marina Agana in Marina (yes, I do mean that) on the mainland. We plan to leave the boat here while we have a short trip home.

The marina staff seemed helpful & efficient & we combined checking out the little town with lunch in a waterfront restaurant. This had lots of fishes swimming in the shallow water in front of it, which were well fed with spare bread. One seagull was actually not eating the bread, but using it as bait so he could stalk & catch the fish!

Entertainment over we dispatched Vicky to the beach while we started on cleaning & readying the boat for our departure. Doug managed to get the engine service done.

Next day (9th June) we sent Vicky to the beach again while we carried on with the jobs. We did relent & meet her for lunch at the ‘seagull’ restaurant. Then in the evening we all got a taxi to Split airport & caught our flight home



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