Sugar 'n' Spice – Weblog 2

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Camaret, Brittany, France


48˚ 17’ N

4˚ 35’W

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Sat 17th May.  A late morning departure from Braye, dictated by the tide through the Swinge channel.  Very little wind, motoring, we passed the rocky islet of Etacs where we watched the gannets yesterday from the land.  There were one or two other yachts & motorboats about & we got a brief sail before arriving at Sark mid afternoon.

Our intended anchorage was busy so we anchored in Port Sales Bay, a little further south.  23.4 nm.

It was well sheltered for the wind direction, but we lacked information on access up the cliffs, so just enjoyed relaxing in the sunshine & scenery.



Sun 18th May.  A short sail & motor to St Peter Port, Guernsey, & by late morning we were inside the tidal sill of Victoria dock.  8.4 nm.

Doug did an oil change in the afternoon, then we strolled the length of the breakwater to Castle Cornet & back.

Monday (19th May) was chores (provisioning etc) before finding our way up the steep back streets of St Peter Port to the Victoria tower.  This landmark (built in honour of Queen Victoria) stands on one of the Town’s high spots & is used as a leading line with Castle Cornet, through the rocky seas between Sark & Guernsey – we had used it yesterday!  We were lucky to arrive at the same time as another couple who had collected the key for entry, so we were able to climb to the top, & admire the views.



Tues 20th May.  A prompt start when the tide had risen enough for us to leave, & after disentangling ourselves from a French yacht (another Dufour) that had been was rafted alongside us on the previous evening’s tidal opening, to the fuel berth.  Then out of the harbour heading south for another mix of motor (wind on the nose), sail, motorsail (wind light), dodge fishing boat, sail.  Interrupted by large black cloud, no wind = motor, rain, wind=sail, & so in the early evening we arrived at Port Blanc, & anchored close to the village. 53.9 nm.

French time is + 1 hr so supper was late, but the evening light on the rocky surroundings was lovely.

Wed 21st May.  Woke to find an increasing wind.  The little catamarans from the local sailing school were charging about, & the forecast had changed such that this was no longer going to be a sheltered harbour.  Our plan to explore ashore was shelved as we hauled anchor & moved on to Perros Guirec.  With wind & tide in our favour we just unrolled the genny for a very relaxed & speedy sail. 8.4 nm.

Perros Guirec marina is fairly large, but is in part of a large drying bay so the water in the marina is retained at a level by a long semi-circular wall with an exceedingly narrow gate at the entrance, not for the faint hearted!

Although we have done some walks here neither of us remembered much about the town itself apart from the ‘breathing in’ entrance, so our usual ‘reminder’ stroll was more of exploration. The town centre is some distance away up a hill so as the forecast weather rain arrived we abandoned plans of a serious shop, & grabbed the vital bits at a local store.  We rain dodged during the evening to have a meal out, & the wind & rain came back overnight.

The next day (22nd May) the forecast said another day for staying put, so we set off to walk a bit of the GR coast path round the headland N & W of the marina. An early shower tried to deter us, the path was up & down between beach & pleasantly wooded stretches then as a harder shower arrived we stopped for galettes (savoury crepes) at a café at Trestrignel beach. Continuing, the path climbed again & turned inland to the Centre Ville.  We raided the supermarket & headed downhill to the boat, again just beating the rain, which this time had set in in earnest.  I think it lasted all night.

Fri 23rd May.  We occupied the morning with another slightly longer walk this time a loop S & E using footpaths & quiet lanes.  Again pleasant up & down countryside, with a convenient coffee stop (more rain) in the village of Louannec, with its imposing church.  We rejoined the GR for a lovely stretch along the coast & back to the boat.

Then at lunchtime with the tidal gate now open we left Perros Guirec, initially with full sail along the coast we had walked yesterday.  As we rounded the headland we needed 2 reefs in the main & some rolls in the genny, then rain muted the wind & the 2nd reef & rolls in genny came out & the course became a beat.  A very black cloud (wind & wet) had us furling the genny & motoring to windward, later we stowed the main for the final early evening approach to Roscoff marina.  30.1 nm.  This is a newish & new to us marina, but has the advantage that it is accessible at all states of the tide unlike a lot of the ports on this coast.






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