Date Filed |
3/12/2009 at home in the |
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Location |
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Lat/Long |
38° 57 N |
20° 46 E |
We are now back in the
Thursday 1st
October.
Retracing our route to
Stavros (most roads are dead ends, because of the steep landscape) we took to
the ‘high ground’. The roads had been
adventurous so far, but now we encountered multiple hairpin bends & goats
roaming (& even snoozing) on the roads, as we climbed high along a ridge of
mountains. The peak of the highest, Mt Nirito at 809metres, didn’t seem very
far above us. We stopped to look at what seemed an almost deserted village
& then a monastery with superb views, & only a caretaker in residence,
before descending via more hairpins to sea level & on to Vathy.
Friday 2nd
October. A prompt departure from Vathy, motoring in no wind, but the battery needed
a charge. As we rounded the SE corner of Itaca the wind filled in & we
unfurled the genny. Doug saw a dolphin rush by & then just before noon we
completed our short passage to Sami in
We went for our usual explore,
lunch, provisions, laundry. As forecast the wind started to pick up later in
the afternoon & the quay was packed fairly solid as other boats arrived to
shelter. Others on the outside of the quay moved inside. A German on one boat
suggested we strung long lines between the boats & to the upwind quay in
case any anchors dragged, so lots of rope came out of lockers as we put this
plan into operation. I must say it seemed an effective ploy as the wind
increased. With the wind came thunder, lightening & heavy rain, & we
stayed awake until the small hours (I think most others did too) when the wind
started easing. The morning (3rd Oct) was a different day with the
sun shining & sea looking benign again. We untied the web of ropes &
the harbour activities returned to normal.
We walked along the coast to
the next hamlet, Melissani. There, there is a lake in an underground cavern.
Part of the roof has collapsed so the light makes the water a deep blue. So we
went for a rowing boat ride!
This is the way visitors are
able to see the cavern & our guide (the rower) was very well informed
(& multilingual). The water in the cavern is brackish having come
underground along a fault line originating 10 kms on the other side of the
island & carries on a further kilometre
to exit out to sea. It was a surprise after the blue light of the cavern to
climb back to sunlight.
Sunday 4th
October. Our planned departure was somewhat delayed as Doug checked the email
only to find Olympic had dumped our booked return flight to the UK scheduled
for a few weeks time. We assume they didn’t have enough passengers for our
internal flight linking to
Monday 5th
October. We made a relaxed departure from the anchorage, warning an incoming
charter boat of the chains, & headed north a couple of miles to the
Then we hoisted the sails,
& leaving Cephalonia sailed along the N Ithaca coast to anchor at the
little steep sided
We were in time for a late
lunch & were hugely amused by the antics of some butterflies (Two Tailed
Pasha, according to book), who so wanted some wine we gave them a saucer to
themselves!
Surprisingly only 3 of the
boats anchored there stayed overnight.
Next day (6th Oct)
was a prompt departure from Atokos sailing close hauled NEwards. We passed some
gulls having a fishing/feeding frenzy, but the skipper didn’t get a line out in
time. Mid morning we dropped anchor at Port Leone on Kalamos island. (8nm &
25m chain).
This smallish island is
fairly close to the Greek mainland coast.
The anchorage is a deep sheltered bay, but the
Wednesday 7th
October we motored the 3.5 nm up the coast to Port Kalamos where we anchored
stern to quay for a brief shopping trip & walk up the hill to the Hora. In
our absence Sugar ‘n’ Spice found a fan club of Brits on the charter boat next
to us – we didn’t take up their offer to swop.
Then it was on again sailing
at first close hauled as we passed the pretty little town of Mytikas on the
mainland shore, & later with cracked sheets, until we arrived at Ormos
Kapali on Meganisi island & anchored in the west bay, where there were
fewer boats. (13nm).
Another fairly deep
anchorage, we had 30m chain out & decided to take a line round a tree on
shore to stop ourselves swinging. The ‘dog’ had a canoe to tow the line this
time. Later canoeing round the bay we surprised a kingfisher & had a lovely
sighting as he flew along the shoreline.
Next morning (thurs 8th
Oct) it was a relaxed start (after canoeing ashore to untie the line) for
another short trip with no wind. This was enlivened by seeing flocks? of flying
fish apparently disturbed by our approach. Arriving at Palairos on the mainland
we anchored stern to quay helped by a taverna owner taking our lines as he
touted for business. (8nm).
Palairos is the base for
several flotilla & charter companies so the harbour filled up later.
We went for our usual wander
around & up to the church & town, & in the evening decided to
patronise our helpful taverna boss. We had a nice meal, then knowing we were
sailors he told us a longer range forecast he had heard, that wind & rain
were due monday onwards. Now thursday, we decided to check this when we next had
a good internet connection.
Friday 9th
October. A relaxed start from Palairos, motoring in little wind along the coast
& then into the buoyed channel through the marshlands between Lefkas &
the mainland. This leads to the town of
In Lefkas we explored the
quaint old town with its narrow streets & quirky clock tower, found a
chandlery & the marina store for some boat bits.
Saturday 10th
October. The canal is spanned by a bridge that lifts to allow boats through. We
planned to go through at the 10am bridge, but the morning dawned with fog that
actually got thicker as the sun rose, so we decided to wait for an hour, so we could
see our way, & other traffic. The pilot did say that the bridge lifts were
hourly. So at 11 we were duly untied & waiting, & we waited ….. until
12noon.
Later we heard that the
schedule had only been 2 hourly all season! Anyway we were through the bridge,
past the Santa Maura castle (14th century) guarding the causeway
& sails were hoisted for a leisurely beat. Another long narrow channel led
into the
We found there was a good
internet connection & checked the weather. As our man in Palairos had said
there was rain & wind forecast for monday & after. We were very
grateful for his tip off – it proved most useful.
Sunday (11th Oct)
we went ashore to check out the town. A lot was closed as it was sunday, but we
found the harbour was full of local boats so the only alternative to anchoring
was the Town Quay or wall. Returning to the boat, & mindful of the
forecast, we took the dry sails off to stow for the winter lay up.
Monday morning (12th
Oct) we made a prompt departure for Vonitsa, a town in the
That afternoon & next day
(13th Oct) continued wet & windy. In the lulls we made some
brief excursions into the Town, found there was another HPYC boat nearby
(Optima Navis), so the owners, Collin & Margaret Wheatley came for drinks
one evening, & on the tuesday Doug got an engine oil change & service
done.
Wednesday 14th
October, with a day of better weather ahead we made an early start back to the
Preveza anchorage. A mid morning call to the boatyard found they could lift us
out a lunchtime today (a day earlier than booked but there was a windier
forecast for the thursday). So it was a rush to do the final ‘afloat’ jobs –
log out, hoist Doug up mast to remove wind instruments etc – then we were off
to the lifting bay for our haulout at 1pm at
Total logged distance 2212.8nm [Engine
hours 264.4]
As with
Thursday 15th
October to Monday 19th October. We attacked the chores of laying a
boat up plus cleaning inside & out, laundry, organising the yard to do some
jobs over the winter.
The weather was very mixed
with a lot of rain which did not help with doing the jobs, & created a lot
of dirt underfoot. There also seemed to be a very voracious variety of mosquito
in the area, so we were burning mossi coils &/or spraying the boat most of
the time.
We took one trip to the town
of
Having had our internal
flight to Athens dumped we did not relish a 5 hour bus ride as a replacement so
Monday (19th Oct) lunchtime we hired a car for 3 days.
We then had a most lovely
drive north through the mountains (glorious autumn colours) to the lakeside
town of
Over the
We wished we had had longer
to walk more in this spectacular area, but were lucky to visit it in lovely
weather & at a relatively uncrowded time of year. At first we were crossing
a huge well cultivated plain, then more hills appeared & as we descended we
could see the
So next morning (thur 22nd
Oct) we joined the motorway for the final stage to