Sugar 'n' Spice - Weblog |
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Date Filed |
20/09/2009 |
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Location |
Poros, |
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Lat/Long |
37:30N |
23:27E |
Note: We are in Poros on 20th September.
Blog is only completed to 6th September. Will catch up later.
Wednesday 26th
August we headed to Stanstead for an evening flight to
The next couple of days were
filled with various jobs to ready the boat, plus several provisioning runs
using the dinghy. A lot of boats around
us were packing up for the year, after their summer break, & we were vastly
amused by a little girl on an Italian boat (Issima) opposite who was hauling
fish after fish out of the harbour with a very miniature fishing rod. She led
her slightly older (& in the main very tolerant) brother, a merry dance
too!
Sunday 30th
August. We made a mid morning departure from Leros marina, with lots of waving
to the Italian family. The wind was light & fickle so it was a motor trip
to the little hamlet of Emborios on Kalymnos, the next island south (7
nm). It was a very pleasant place, but
the holding is poor, so the tavernas lay buoys to claim your patronage. We went ashore to ‘pay our dues’, & a
stroll, then had a swim & watched the world go by.
Next morning (31st August) we left for Porthia,
the main town/port of Kalymnos. Leaving Emborios we passed between the steep
barren islet of Telendos & several little resorts on the west coast of
Kalymnos. The wind was fickle so it was
a mix of motoring when it was too light & some frisky reaching with the
genny. Arriving in Porthia around midday we berthed stern to the quay (10.9 nm)
& went for a recce. The wind is set to increase again so we intend stopping
here a couple of days.
So tuesday (1st
September – is autumn here?) we took a bus to the Vathi valley, NE up the
coast. The little hamlet of Rina is at the head of a long narrow inlet,
described as a fjiord, & there is only limited space for yachts. Having
watched some charter boats struggle to get off the stub of a quay in the
increasingly gusty wind we were glad were had taken the boat into Porthia.
Vathi has a good water supply
so is a pleasantly green place with a lot of cultivation stretching back up the
valley floor, & a little river full of fish flowing through Rina. The
return bus trip was a surprise as the bus route took a huge loop, on a barely
bus wide road, up the valley to remote churches & farms, giving us a lovely
view of the fields & cultivation.
Wednesday we visited the
sponge diving museum. Kalymnos is noted
for its sponge divers all over the world, & the array of antique diving
gear & old photos was amazing. It
was a very dangerous occupation & lots of the divers died or were crippled
with the bends. We also visited a sponge
shop, where the lady proprietor explained more of the practicalities of
cleaning & preparing the sponges for use (interesting to us as we see a lot
while snorkelling). Probably because she didn’t have a pushy sales pitch we
bought a ‘real’ sponge, but I don’t know who will win ownership of this
valuable item! Later Doug walked up the
hill behind the port to a monastery & viewpoint to take pictures over the
Town (I opted out having bruised my foot, so not good for walking).
Thursday 3rd
September. A relaxed departure from Kalymnos for another short trip (9.2 nm),
but a lovely sail with just the genny to the
Friday 4th
September. We left this lovely spot, again just unrolling the genny, for the
7.6 nm trip to
We filled the water tanks –
nice as we had had to fill one with non potable, but OK for washing etc, in
Kalymnos so were glad to get that refilled with fresh. Then it was off to the
ancient town for a stroll & lunch. In the afternoon we went round the
castle & had a bird’s eye view down on the boat from the ramparts.
Saturday 5th
September. A prompt start from
As we arrived in the rather
busy harbour a yacht was in the middle of the channel with its anchor firmly
hooked under something at the harbour bottom. With a queue of boats building up
behind us we dropped our anchor & went stern to the quay in the place they
had vacated. Once secure we joined the onlookers as the crew tried to lift
their anchor & whatever had hooked it. There was a lot of manoeuvring then
they wedged in on the far side between a gulet & another yacht &
someone went down with a mask to have a look. Helped by their new neighbours
there was more heaving & shoving, a motorboat came out, lifted his anchor
bringing another chain with it. A lad from the gulet helped them free that,
then the gulet itself lifted its anchor, but had hooked nothing, So the yacht
tried again to lift his anchor & was still held fast, but this time,
another dive & a line to the bottom, to every ones relief they were free!
It had taken about 3 hours to sort out, & they had only visited the harbour
for a few hours. With the evening well on we had supper on board then went for
a recce & gelati in the lively town.
Next morning (6th
September) we walked up one of the staircases that leads to Horio, the old
town, topped by the ruined walls of a castle & a church. The views were
terrific, over Simi town & port, a row of windmills to the adjacent deep