Took the dinghy to the beach – first people there!
Then walked up the gorge for a bit, it would be very dramatic when the water is running, there were various warning notices. The floor apart from the stream bed was covered in shrubs & home to various small birds, & we encountered some goats who seemed able to defy gravity up & down the cliff faces. Returned & walked through the tunnels linking to the next beach & a little tourist harbour, then back to the boat, up anchor & started to beat up the coast, full sail at first then we needed a reef. Late morning a pod of dolphins crossed our stern, but did not stay – bottlenose I think as they were bigger & greyer than the common dolphin we have mostly been seeing. Early afternoon we bore away round Cabo Formentor & anchored in Cala Murta for the night. 30nm. It is common practice here for people to dive to check their anchor has set, or at least swim over it with a mask. Not something we would normally contemplate in our murky home waters. Here Doug actually moved the anchor away from a rock so it would set in sand!
Mid morning departure for the 5.5nm to the anchorage at
Puerto Pollenca – large area, but fairly
Went by bus a few kms inland to
the town of
[In the Balearics it is common to have the Port some way from the town proper as this was the first defence against the Moors, when the port was abandoned if attacked.]
Ashore, while theoretically still cool, to walk a track through the foothills behind Puerto Pollenca. This took us past a large old farm, & along a relatively green valley, with more goats, across the neck of the Formentor peninsular to look down on another little cala. Returning to the boat we left the anchorage & went round the next bay to Puerto Alcudia, with a lunchtime stop at Cala Pinar along the way. 12nm. Another large , but shallow anchorage.
Ashore & caught bus to Alcudia. This town has had its medieval walls restored, so the look very smart. It holds a regular street market, which we found full of tourist knickknacks & not very useful in terms of provisions. Just outside the walls we found the Roman remains including a forum & amphitheatre, & walked back through these to Puerto Alcudia.
An early morning trip to the fuel berth for diesel & water successfully beat the queues there, then it was back to the anchorage to go ashore for provisions, & then a late morning departure for Playa Coll Baix just N of Cabo Menorca (5nm). Very clear water, but early evening a very uncomfortable swell picked up so we went back to an anchorage behind Isla Ancanada near Alcudia for the night. (4nm).
Prompt departure from the anchorage, first motoring in no wind, then some
sailing interspersed with motoring or Doug fishing (usual result) when the wind
dropped off. We set the brollies as sun shades. About tea time anchored in Cala Con Saura,
A windy morning so we stayed put at anchor, & did more swimming & snorkelling later.
Moved 5nm along the coast to Cala Trebeluja. An enchanting little cala with footpaths leading up over the headlands each side & a stream coming in at one corner. We took the canoes up the stream for about a mile, first through a wooded gorge & then an area of reedbeds, until it got so narrow we had to turn round. Lots of birds flitting about in the reeds (not easy to identify), some large grey heron whose fishing we disturbed & then, feeding on a carcase, were some terrapins (or turtles). They slid underwater & disappeared as we approached, but were back eating again when we turned back.
Fairly early departure from Cala
Trebeluja (motoring, no wind). We took a brief
detour to look at Cala Covas
– very narrow & already with quite a lot of boats anchored, but quite
spectacular with cliffs either side with numerous caves & then on to anchor
briefly in a busy Cala Binebeca.
I canoed ashore to check out the facilities while Doug guarded the boat against
‘dodgems’ – round motorised fun boats. On our way again we
had a brief sail before the wind died again & we entered the huge natural
We were looking for water which we finally found at the fuel berth (although
it was closed for fuel, to the dismay of a Portugese
yacht), but we were impressed with what we could see of
A prompt start from Cala Es Grau found us sailing as soon as we were out of the cala. We had some tidying to do as the canoes had been left draining overnight, but once we had cleared them away we poled out the genny & had a glorious sail. Mid morning Doug saw the spout from a whale, then we both saw it spout again & the back break surface. Exciting. Apart from that we saw the occasional ship, a few seabirds & the wind stayed a force 4 or 5 varying between S & SE so we were alternately poling out the genny or not. We only had the engine on late evening to charge the batteries.
The wind & our progress continued through the early hours. Early morning
a single dolphin jumped in our wake, then mid morning things got more
boisterous & we put in first 1 reef, then the second & arrived at Bandol,
They even put on a search & rescue demonstration with lifeboat & helicopter on the quay that evening.
Explored the town & found a seafood lunch for Doug.
Relaxed start from Bandol
& E along coast with a mix of motor & sail depending on wind. Quite dramatic cliffs & hills behind. 18nm
& a lunchtime arrival in
Watched & waited as the gale materialised. Very wearisome with the noise & movement. Is this the dreaded mistral?
In & around
Saturday Doug off colour so we did some chores & had a look at the market, followed in the evening by drinks on board Bryanne, another D40 with owners John & Jane & their friend Stewart, over from Hong Kong. Very pleasant.
Sunday we went along the coast path to the resort part of the city, Mourillon, with lovely, albeit busy beaches. There was an air display with some very good teams of jets doing formation flying & various breathtaking stunts.
Monday we took the cable car up
Tuesday we caught the train along to
Sort boat & depart for a very slow sail in very light winds to anchor at
Baie de Langoustier on
Relaxed departure, motoring as no wind, for
With dawn we were able to chivvy the dragonflies away, although some corpses remained in lockers for some time.
Then just after 7am we anchored at Cargese, on the
west coast of
After a couple of hours nap we went to explore the town, which sprawled up the steepish hillside to two churches facing one another, a ‘Latin’ & a Greek orthodox (they had once had a colony here).
After a morning stroll round the headland & back through the town again we departed for a nice sail across the bay, past the Isles Sanguinaires to anchor behind point de la Parata. 14nm.
There were lots of coming & goings as sightseers toured the point to view the islands & a small slipway on the beach also had lots of ‘traffic’ including jet-skiers who came out past us at very slow speed (no wash) with cheerful grins & waves before hitting the throttle further out.
A short morning trip to
We spent the afternoon exploring